Hilo: The Big Island's Rainy Side and Why That's a Good Thing
Why Hilo's Rain Is Not a Problem — It's the Point
Hilo is the rainiest city in the United States. If you're coming from a dry climate, that takes a moment to recalibrate around. But the rain that falls on the windward side of the Big Island is also what creates the lush, green, dramatically beautiful landscape that defines eastern Hawaii. The waterfalls, the botanical gardens, the verdant valleys, the extraordinary farmers market — none of it exists without the rain. Visitors who skip Hilo because they're chasing sunshine miss one of the most distinctive and genuinely Hawaiian communities in the state.
Hilo's Farmers Market — The Best in Hawaii
The Hilo Farmers Market is the best argument for scheduling at least one morning in Hilo. Held Wednesday and Saturday (Saturday is the full version with 200+ vendors) at the corner of Mamo Street and Kamehameha Avenue, this market is a genuine community institution. You'll find tropical fruit you've never seen before, anthuriums for a few dollars, Hamakua mushrooms, locally raised pork, cacao products, island honey, and prepared foods from a dozen different culinary traditions.
On Saturday mornings, the market pulses with locals doing their weekly shopping alongside visitors who got the right tip. Prices are low. Quality is high. Arrive by 8 AM to see the best selection.
Rainbow Falls and Wailuku River
Rainbow Falls is a 80-foot waterfall at the edge of Hilo that's accessible via a short walk from a parking area — one of the most spectacular easily-accessible waterfalls in Hawaii. Come in the morning when the sun hits the mist at the right angle to produce the rainbow effect that gives it the name. The Wailuku River State Park around it has additional trails and views.
A short drive upriver, Pe'epe'e Falls and the Boiling Pots — a series of pools connected by churning water — are a less-visited extension of the same park worth combining with Rainbow Falls.
Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve and Garden
The Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve and Garden north of Hilo in Onomea Bay is a privately maintained botanical garden that descends a dramatic valley to the ocean. Over 2,000 tropical plant species fill the terraced landscape, and the walk from the parking area to the bay passes waterfalls, lily ponds, and one of the most impressive concentrations of tropical vegetation you'll find anywhere.
It's a full 90-minute to 2-hour experience if you explore it properly. The ocean view at the base of the valley is extraordinary. Entry fee applies; it's worth every dollar.
Where to Eat in Hilo
Ken's House of Pancakes has been open 24 hours a day since 1971. The loco moco here is the local standard — hamburger patties on rice with gravy and fried eggs — and the menu covers every possible breakfast and plate lunch combination. It's a Hilo institution in every sense.
Cafe Pesto in the historic S. Hata Building on Kamehameha Avenue does wood-fired pizzas and fresh pasta with locally sourced ingredients. The Hamakua mushroom pizza is locally grown and locally excellent. A good evening option for the kind of satisfying, locally-grounded dinner that Hilo does well without the price point of Kohala Coast resorts.
The Hamakua Coast Day Trip
The drive from Hilo north along the Hamakua Coast to Waimea (about an hour without stops) is one of the most beautiful coastal drives in Hawaii. The road winds through sugar plantation-era towns, past sea cliffs and waterfalls dropping directly into the ocean, with the green slopes of Mauna Kea rising on the left.
Akaka Falls State Park is the most visited stop — a short 0.4-mile loop trail to two waterfalls including the 442-foot Akaka Falls, one of the tallest in the state. The trail passes through a bamboo forest and past a 100-foot falls before reaching the main drop. Combined with the Hamakua coast drive, this is a full half-day excursion from Hilo worth building into any Big Island itinerary.
Hilo as a Base
Staying in Hilo gives you better access to the east side of the island — Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (45 minutes south), the Hamakua Coast and Waipio Valley (north), and the farmers market and botanical gardens. Accommodation is significantly less expensive than the Kohala Coast resorts, and the community has a genuinely local character that the resort corridor doesn't replicate. The trade-off is weather uncertainty and the longer drive to Kona's snorkeling and coffee country. For a two-destination Big Island trip, Kona for the first half and Hilo for the second gives you the best of both sides.
What Hilo Actually Is
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