Makawao: Maui's Upcountry Town Where Cowboys Meet Art Galleries
Makawao at 1,500 Feet
Makawao sits in Maui's upcountry at about 1,500 feet on the slopes of Haleakalā. It is noticeably cooler than the coast, often misty in the morning, and smells like eucalyptus and pasture. The town was built by Portuguese and Japanese immigrants who came to work the pineapple and sugarcane fields in the late 1800s and stayed to raise cattle in the cooler elevation. Their descendants and a subsequent wave of artists who arrived in the 1970s and 80s are responsible for the character the town has today.
Cowboys and Rodeo
The upcountry has a genuine paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) tradition that most visitors know nothing about. Hawaiian cowboys predate the American West's cattle culture — King Kamehameha III brought Mexican vaqueros to the islands in 1832 to teach Hawaiians cattle ranching, and the paniolo culture that developed is distinctly Hawaiian.
Makawao Rodeo, held every July 4th weekend, is one of the oldest rodeos in the United States and draws competitors from across the Pacific. It is a real rodeo with real competition — bull riding, roping, barrel racing — not a tourist production. The atmosphere in the stands is entirely local and worth seeing. If you are on Maui over the Fourth of July, it is the best way to spend an afternoon.
Art Galleries
The two-block intersection of Baldwin Avenue and Makawao Avenue contains more serious art galleries per square foot than anywhere else in Hawaii. Hot Island Glass is one of the most distinctive — a working hot glass studio and gallery where you can watch artists blowing glass in the open studio. Viewpoints Gallery is a long-running cooperative with work by local artists across media. The galleries skew toward fine art rather than tourist souvenirs; the work is genuinely good and the prices reflect it.
First Friday art events in Makawao pull the whole town together monthly — galleries stay open late, artists are present, and the streets fill up with locals and visitors in about equal measure.
Where to Eat
Komoda Store and Bakery on Baldwin Avenue has been making cream puffs and doughnuts since 1916. It is one of the oldest continuously operating businesses in Maui. Get there early — the pastries sell out before noon and some specific items sell out even earlier. This is not an exaggeration. Casanova Italian Restaurant has been the upcountry social hub for decades — pizza, pasta, live music on weekends, and a full bar. T. Komoda's sticky buns are the item that local families drive up from the coast for on Sunday mornings.
Protea Farms
The upcountry slopes around Makawao are where most of Hawaii's protea flowers are grown. Protea thrive at the elevation and volcanic soil conditions found here and almost nowhere else in the islands. Sunrise Protea Farm on the road toward Haleakalā is the best-known public operation — the farm stand is open daily and the variety of flowers is remarkable. This is also a legitimately good stop on the way up to or down from Haleakalā sunrise.
The Drive Itself
Getting to Makawao is part of the experience. Baldwin Avenue winds up from Paia on the coast through cane fields and eucalyptus groves. At lower elevation the light is tropical; by the time you reach Makawao the temperature has dropped and the vegetation has changed entirely. Take the full drive slowly rather than rushing to the main intersection.
Proximity to Haleakalā
Makawao is on the most direct route to Haleakalā National Park — continue up Baldwin Avenue and connect to Crater Road (Route 378) for the summit. If you have an early sunrise reservation at the summit, staying in Makawao or higher upcountry eliminates the brutal predawn drive from the coast. Staying at one of the upcountry bed-and-breakfasts also means you wake up in the cool air rather than fighting traffic up the mountain in the dark.
Practical Notes
- Komoda's hours: Opens early, closes when the pastries are gone. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday.
- Parking: Small lot behind the main intersection and street parking on Baldwin. Not a problem except during rodeo weekend.
- Weather: Bring a layer. Upcountry mornings are often in the 60s even in summer, and misty. It can rain briefly at any time.
- Rodeo: July 4th weekend. Get there early and expect the town to be packed. This is the best version of Makawao all year.
What Is Upcountry Maui
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